#Old craftsman table saw 100 install
I'd like to install iron pulleys and a poly-vee belt-in preference to a link belt. Stiffened the legs near the bottom with slightly-reworked pallet slats. Could scrape or file or sand this out, but probably won't bother-I doubt it has much effect on the cutting I do. The table is about 15 thou low in the middle. This has made a considerable improvement, though it looks inelegant to say the least. I screwed a slice of coated particleboard shelf to the left side of the fence and shimmed it straight with paper. I decided to do minimal upgrades while waiting for something better to come along. I recently found a similar saw with a Unifence for $300 for a friend.ĬaryThanks for all the input. I used to have a Delta contractor saw made in 2005 with a T2 fence and it wasa a great saw. By the time you try to fix it you could have moved on to something better for the same money. It sounds like you have enough problems with this saw that I would get rid of it and find something new. Life is too short to mess with a tool that is not working for you. I can't really justify much of an investment in another saw, but what would be the next step.? I could certainly put a better fence on it, and I think it would run smoother with machined poly-vee pulleys and belt-cheap as Ridgid parts-but I'm not sure if any investment is this saw is really justified. Are my experiences typical or do I have a bad-Monday saw? Would I be happier with a Taiwanese-Delta-contractor-saw clone? Or? Maybe each of these issues isn't fatal, but the combination is making me wonder if this tool is worth bothering with at all, or if I will every be satisfied with it. Seems to me the quality has slipped overall. Belt tension needs attention after every blade height change. It has the smaller, not the "3 horsepower" version. The legs have no lower supports-easily enough added-and the the castors are flimsy, bendy things. It does lock down reasonably consistently as to parrallelism to the blade. I suppose I can fill it out with bondo but it will be a pain to work it down. (The older saws used aluminum extrusions). Worse, the fence-a fabricated sheet metal thing-isn't straight, it has a belly in it, and the sides aren't perpendicular to the table. The blade seems to reposition itself sideways a sixteenth or so, in some way I haven't figured out yet (very loose trunnions?). (My others did too, until I ground the flanges with a die grinder.). There is noticeable-to-the-naked-eye runout in the blade hub. There is radial and axial play in the arbor, not a lot but it can be felt. Now, I'm using a later model, from the 80s I suppose. They have obvious limitations but seemed to get the job done for someone not that serious about woodworking.
#Old craftsman table saw 100 series
Thanks for sharing your passion here and look forward to More posts.a bunch more from you and your dad! Much appreciated.I've been using Craftsman/Emerson table saws, mostly "100" series from the fifties, for years.
That 24" Scroll is a beast also and by the engine turning on the shield it looks to be a King Seeley too? It never ceases to amaze me what Sears Roebuck - Craftsman products did for the home shop guys for all these years. The Sheldon 13" has that look of Built to last and precision.Nice piece of Kit!! Looks to be a later variety (50's+)? My brother picked up a 43', 13"x 6' SB a while back in pretty good shape with lots of extras.on a heck of a deal. Honestly I'm just a novice to some of this older industrial stuff, but love it, especially bringing them back to life for another long run! Oh My!! Hope you have the concrete under it! Do you have the horizontal stuff for it? Couldn't find much info on the 22M but assume its 3x autofeed based on what I can see but the table and lift are beefier than the others I saw. Wow Mike those are beautiful restorations and you are definitely passionate to take on the VN 22M, beast.
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